My Excellent Japanese Adventure #3 (final) |
Ahhhh, the Land of the Long White Cloud ... I mean, the Land of the Rising Sun .... I mean, "Where's the Sunshine?", "Summer Rain", "Singing in the Rain" all good tunes to hum these last few hours away as it buckets down here at the Kansai International Airport, Osaka. As we draw to a close the final chapter in this thrilling tale of temples, shrines, subways and shopping, I thank you for your encouragement and feedback on my little tales. They have been fun to share. They reflect only 1/10th of the scenery and quirkiness that is Japan that I've experienced over the last 18 days. Sit back and enjoy my final travel tales before a welcome return to AUS, my family and friends. WEDNESDAY It was another pleasurable trip on the Shinkansen - only 1 1/2 hrs this time from Kyoto to Osaka. The tranquility was tarnished only slightly by the larger businessman and his strongly fishy smelling bento box lunch that lasted about ... 20 mins before he fell asleep. Hiroshima was easy to navigate, the Hana Hotel (Hiroshima Hostel) (v.v.v.v.v highly recommended) was walking distance from the station, recently converted from a business hotel to a hostel. Their information board in the foyer had 3 local baseball fixtures on it, so off I trotted to see the Hiroshima Carp in action. The locals love them!! It was rainy, 7 of the 9 innings I watched. Yes, I stuck it out to the (almost) end when it was inevitable they were not going to come back from a 1-5 deficit. THURSDAY Off to a slow start this morning. Big day planned with the A-bomb dome and Peace Park first on the agenda. I was really keen to see these areas and learn about the bomb and its affect on this region. But my feet were heavy all the same - the size of the catastrophe and the subsequent deaths involved made it a very odd feeling to go and walk the streets. There were many memorials and structures representing peace, life, the future and respectfully remembering the victims (immediate and those that died subsequently) throughout the Peace Park and Memorial buildings and museums. The target of the bomb was the Aioi Bridge near the Peace Park and it's explosion was 600m over the city - it didn't actual detonate on the ground. As I walked away from the area and went to find some sustenance, I found a small plaque on a building in a laneway that read that this spot was the actual hypocentre of the bomb's explosion 600m over the city. A very random but sobering find as I was enjoying the final bits of my choc-banana pancake. The hostel had an opening night tempura party - yey - so I helped cook - we all had a bit of a go, it was a staff member's birthday so there was cake too! A great night. A handful of us then ventured out for drinks and karoake. He He He. Photos on facebook. We started karaoke at 1.30am and sang some of the worst renditions in history :) One of the absolute joys about coming home will be smoke-free pubs/clubs/cafes. OMG.. the smoke headache on Friday morning was just too much. FRIDAY Off to Miyajima after lunch (yep, big sleep in). 35min train then 10 min ferry across to the island. Another hot, muggy day - and a bit of rain - and saw some beautiful temples, hills, landscapes, the "floating" tori gate (one of the best known icons promoting Japan, the big orange/red gate standing on its own weight below the water line). Plenty of deer roaming the streets, following people, looking for food. Apparently they are quite liberal in their rummaging of bags in pursuit of snacks. Thankfully all the forest monkeys were off feeding when I ventured up Mt Misen this afternoon. The signs and pictures everywhere about how bold the monkeys are were quite disturbing really. Spectacular views and great breeze. Part of the mountain was closed for repairs due to a recent deluge and severe damage to paths due to landslides. Hung around until dusk and grabbed some dinner (well dusk came before I was ready actually) and had the BEST meal of my time in Japan. Thin slices of highly marbled beef, cooked on your own little burning plate, wedges of potato and a salad. OMG. So I ordered a second helping (5 thin slices of meet barely a meal maketh for a seedy traveller weary from trekking all afternoon). Back out to the waterfront and the tori gate was in full light and I managed the settings on my camera for some good shots. (on a mac and no hard drive to plug in my card adapter to attach - sorry) (slide night anyone?? I've got the pics, you bring the popcorn). Straggled home about 9pm and retired my weary bones. SATURDAY Off to Osaka - crazy subway system, private lines, trams and the like. Wow. Splurged on a hotel with my own room, shower, towels, carpeted floors and air conditioning. Ahhhh, the spoils of war :) Wandered down the main road from the hotel to see what I could find. The national theatre appeared and I went in to see if there were tickets for that night. Shorts and sandals weren't matinee attire so I planned for an evenings culture if I could get a ticket. I was accosted by a little old lady as I stood at the interactive screen in the lobby - pulling my arm, showing me her watch, pointing upstairs and showing me 2 tickets. So, off we went upstairs and I saw 4 sessions of that afternoon's traditional Japanese dancing performed by one of her friends in the cast. The theatre was spectacular, performance great, costumes unreal, and all in Japanese - no English headsets this day I'm afraid. Through my travel book and her limited English we exchanged pleasantries and exchanged the time after each session confirming "one more, start soon". Then off she went when it was finished and I was left a little dazed, inspired and felt a little loved in a strange city. Found a great restaurant for dinner - you guessed it - sliced beef on hot rocks and a plate of "Vegies on Fire" to cook myself. mmmmm food. The hotel was above a department store which - by the grace of the shopping god - was having sales all over the place, so I obliged in the best way I know how. Shopping sales at 8pm on a Saturday - priceless (well not really, the spoiling aunty went to town if you know what I mean). Flicked through the TV stations and found a concert telecast of a band called Acidman. Brilliant!! SUNDAY The day of rest - slow start = sleep in, papers slipped under door. Ah, small luxuries. Saw a documentary on an artist Hokusai and his famous print "Great Wave" which is reproduced everywhere on promotional and souvenir materials. Fascinating story about the artist and the piece, its translations, ripoffs, etc etc. Went to the Shitennoji Temple and its gardens, meandering for about 2 1/2 hrs. Hot, steamy - no rain!! Just my first sunburn since being away. Found the Osaka Municipal Museum of Art - nice, small, closing for the afternoon. Wandered through Osaka's IT district, bought the Acidman concert on DVD - yes, enough broken japanese and english was exchanged to facilitate this purchase. Packed my bulging bags, watched my DVD, read my book and fell, exhausted about midnight. MONDAY Off to the National Museum and Ceramics Museum. D'oh. Closed. Found mecca though - the Mizuno store, 6 levels of all things sport. I worshipped the shopping god today. Volleyball, basketball and soccer shared the 1st floor (very disrespectful I thought, 1/3 of a floor!). Outdoor/adventure clothing took up the 2nd floor. Swimming the 3rd floor. Closed exhibition space on 4th floor. Golf on 5th floor. Baseball on 6th floor. Driving range and "excellence centre" on 7th floor. Very impressive. Walked a few blocks to see what was going on, I must be getting old, my hips were starting to ache and .... you guessed it, it started to rain again. So off to the hotel I ventured for an early dinner, robe and fluffy slippers. Yes, I am getting old when a cold bath feels exceptional. But if I had a pedometer for the last 4 weeks I bet it would be registering very highly. My little (not so) feet, knees and hips were pretty stuffed by now. And had the night off. Finished my book (Great Expectations, which I'd never read before now), packed and prepared for the last day in Nippon. TUESDAY Slept in again. D'oh. Checked out and headed off to the Osaka Castle (the National Museum happened to be closed today also). Huge place, learnt some of the history in its museum about the famous Summer War and the region's rulers. Hot and stinky, I mean, really hot. No rain. Found a little alley of market shops and wandered down - the best things aren't on maps. Made friends with a lovely lady - Miyoko - as I plundered her washi (rice paper) store of its worldly goods. Oh so beautiful stuff. I worshipped the shopping god for the final time today. Quick lunch on the way to hotel for airport shuttle when - yep - afternoon showers. :) And that my friends brings me to Osaka's Kansai International airport. First in queue to check in, seat at the pointy end waiting for me, snacks in the lounge being devoured and my last entertaining tidbits coming to a close. OBSERVATIONS OF JAPAN You never know which side of the street, stairs or tunnel to walk on. Walkers and riders switched sides every town, station or street. Quite precarious. Lots of stairs, lots of walking and very well structured for tourists. The maps, city landmarks and transport are very cohesive and readily available - every 10m you'll find more signs, maps etc to reaffirm your course. Everything in the country has a fascinating story associated with it. So much to tell to anyone that will explore and listen. People going out of their way to make you welcome. Enough shrines and temples for everyone!! Vending machines (drinks, beer and cigarettes) on every corner, and all corners of an intersection - brilliant! Plastic food that looks sooooo real on display everywhere, making ordering easy if you're lazy and don't try to speak the language. Very, very few foreigners. I felt noticeably that I was a visitor and saw so few other foreigners in all my travels. A very hospitable host who's hospitality I have treasured and can't wait to return to explore more and more - particularly the great white Mt Fuji. So much still to see of this beautiful country - any season of the year. Sayonara |
